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7 wonders of ethnic eating

Susan Troller  —  8/28/2008 12:23 pm

There may be some pleasure in armchair traveling, but in Madison it's vastly better to be a dining chair traveler.

From Ethiopia to Russia, we've identified a smorgasbord of ethnic restaurants -- several subterranean, one suburban and all surprising. The list is not intended as a "best of" list; instead, it emphasizes places that are unique, a bit off the beaten path, or spots that a newcomer might miss.

Rev up your appetite, and let's go:

1. Arbat, 3000 Cahill Main, , is a charming, colorful Russian restaurant in a Fitchburg strip mall, but you'd swear you're in the steppes, not the suburbs. The radio is tuned to a Moscow station, and young chef Alex Nikitin, who was born in Latvia, creates rich, aromatic food with a focus on hearty favorites like dumplings, root vegetables, pork, caviar and potatoes with lots of sour cream. For more: 277-0661, www.arbat.com.

2. It's easy to miss Buraka, but it would be a mistake for anyone with an appetite for East African food. A lovely Ethiopian dining spot whose only street presence is an unobtrusive doorway at 543 State St., the basement restaurant is bright and colorful. The exotic aromas are enough to transport you to another world, and the owner, Ethiopian-born Markos Regassa, is a gracious host. For more: 255-3646.

3. Cafe Costa Rica, 141 S. Butler St., is in a tiny space below the Madison hostel, just east of the Capitol. A jewel of a restaurant, its drink menu includes a Dark & Stormy to write home about, and a darn-near-perfect mojito. From fried plantains to the curried entrees served with rice and beans and accompanied by spicy mango or coconut-based sauces, this is food that takes you far, far from Madison. When the weather turns chilly, count on this tropical cafe to banish the winter blues. For more: 256-9830.

4. Coreana, 1401-B University Ave., is a calm oasis of home-style Korean cuisine. Dishes like bibimbap, a mixed rice, vegetables and meat entree, and bulgogi, which combines different meats with a housemade hot sauce, attract lots of international students, faculty and visitors to the UW. For more: 251-0896.

5. Lao Laan Xang, (two locations), 1146 Williamson St. and 2098 Atwood Ave., specializes in spicy Laotian food. Both locations are Madison favorites, with the curry squash having especially addictive and delicious powers. There's little room for waiting at the cozy Williamson Street location, but Atwood isn't far away and has more space. For more: 280-0104 (Williamson) and 819-0140 (Atwood).

6. Maza, 558 State St., has been drawing raves for its affordable, savory Afghan cuisine. Chef Shekeba Samadzada makes sure the recipes are authentic. She said she speaks with her mother in Afghanistan to discuss food "probably every other day." The restaurant has student-friendly hours consistent with its prime campus location. For more: 256-9330 or mazarest@yahoo.com.

7. Samba Brazilian Grill, 240 W. Gilman St., has enjoyed a high buzz of popularity since opening late in 2007. Located in the historic Madison Women's Club building, this local hot spot is arguably the most exotically beautiful dining room in town (although the new Muramoto on King Street gives it a real run for its money). Samba's claim to fame is grilled meat -- all you can eat -- delivered to your table by knife-swinging gauchos. The massive salad bar is a sight to behold, and to taste, too. For more: 257-1111, www.sambabraziliangrill.com.

Susan Troller  —  8/28/2008 12:23 pm