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Plenty to savor at Taste of Madison

Samara Kalk Derby  —  8/28/2008 6:02 am

Just like last year, Lombardino's dominated in the Taste of Madison 2008 judging.

The beloved Italian restaurant on University Avenue will be back this year with its saltimbocca, a mouth-watering grilled chicken and ham panini with melted fontina cheese and sage aioli. It took first place in the Italian category of the competition, held ahead of this weekend's event on the Capitol Square.

The panini is not something Lombardino's has on its regular menu -- the restaurant doesn't serve lunch -- so it's worth seeking out at the Taste. It's one of the many delights to sample at the 26th annual event, where all of the food is priced from $1 to $4.

Last year, the saltimbocca took first in the same category. I was one of the 30 judges this year (the judging was done in July) and rated the sandwich a 5 on a scale of 1 to 5. Runners-up this year were Bourbon Street Grille's turkey panini and Biaggi's Italian beef.

Lombardino's vanilla bean panna cotta, a creamy Italian custard made by simmering cream, milk and sugar, and mixing it with gelatin, won for best gourmet dessert. It also won in the best presentation category.

The judging is sort of loose, with judges just sampling what's available and what appeals to them. And if a judge fills up, there may be many dishes he or she doesn't get to try.

I didn't get to the panna cotta, but I did sample the restaurant's eggplant fries, which were good even cold and soggy. That's one problem with the Taste of Madison judging -- it is done in two shifts, and some of the food is cold by the time the judges try it.

Not all of the 60-odd vendors elect to have their food evaluated. In past years, judges went around to the booths that wanted their food rated on the Saturday of the event. The benefit of the early judging is that restaurants can display their winning ribbons and certificates on both days instead of just on Sunday.

The second-place winner for gourmet dessert was Bluephies for its chocolate chip cookie dough egg roll. Grace Cheesecakes' chocoholic cheesecake tied with its own pumpkin spice cheesecake for third. I can vouch for the delectability of all three.

It didn't win anything, but I need to put a plug in for the key lime pie from Joey's Seafood & Grill: simply superb.

Taj Indian restaurant on Park Street took third place for "most unique" for its chicken tikka masala and rice. I would look to Taj for any of its offerings, which will change between Saturday and Sunday. The mixed vegetable curry and the chana masala (chickpeas) are both excellent.

Coming in first for most unique was Bourbon Street Grille's mummy shrimp. Bluephies' Butterfinger wontons took second.

Santa Fe Trailer, which operates a new food cart on Library Mall, won me over with its refreshing, nicely spicy gazpacho, which came in second in the appetizer category. Its green chile quesadilla with pork is another worthwhile option, and almost as good were its red chili tacos.

As for the other appetizer winners, Sa-Bai Thong took first for its shrimp purse, and Sweet Sophie's of Waunakee came in third for its dip sampler.

Bandung, the Indonesian restaurant in the Gateway Mall on Williamson Street, is one of my favorite restaurants in town, so I was gratified that its opor ayam took first in the Asian category. The dish is a chicken curry made with coconut broth, lemongrass, potatoes and bamboo shoots, and is served over yellow rice. Sa-Bai Thong came in second and third in this category with its curry rice and pad Thai, respectively.

Bandung's fantastic perkedel jagong, a sweet corn fritter served over yellow rice with a spicy garlic sauce, took first place in the ethnic category. The

Casbah's grilled kafta kabab, a blend of ground beef, onions, parsley and spices, was second, and Buraka's popular dorowot -- a spicy chicken and carrot stew -- was third.

Gotham Bagels came in second in the "kid pleasing" category for its bagel dog, a vote I completely agree with. Auntie Anne's cinnamon sugar pretzel tied for first with The Casbah's chicken shawarma and rice. Qdoba's sirloin taco took third.

You can find all of the award winners listed on the Taste of Madison's Web site, www.madisonfestivals.com/taste.

While about 30 judges critiqued some of the offerings, "Best of Taste" and "Spirit of Taste" will be awarded at the event. "Spirit" will be chosen by Madison Festivals Inc. and announced on Saturday. "Best" will be voted on by Taste-goers and awarded on Sunday.

Pick up a ballot at the Madison Festivals booth or look for a Taste of Madison program, available at the event's beverage stands or in today's Wisconsin State Journal.

Just try not to overdo it.

26th Annual Taste of Madison

Address: Capitol Square

Hours: 2-8 p.m. Saturday; noon to 7 p.m. Sunday

Notes: parking ramps nearby; some street parking available; cash only

Samara Kalk Derby  —  8/28/2008 6:02 am