Sweet or savory: Bradbury's satisfies crepe cravings

Samara Kalk Derby  —  9/17/2008 11:58 am

I'm not a morning person, so Bradbury's was never going to be my kind of place.

The crepe and espresso shop had very limited hours when it debuted in January, open in the early morning until 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and closed Sundays. Fortunately, about a month ago, owners Josh and Jill Makoutz extended Bradbury's weekday hours to 7 p.m. (The Saturday hours stayed the same.)

Don't bother trying to stop by on Saturday during the Dane County Farmers' Market unless you're alone, because there are only three small tables and the atmosphere tends to be chaotic. There is also a counter with nine stools around the perimeter of the room.

But what a dramatic room it is. The triangular space on the first floor of Capitol Point condominiums is one block off the Square, and the all-glass coffee shop offers a panoramic view of Webster, Hamilton and Dayton streets.

"You have to give them credit," said a friend. "They've created a restaurant out of a cubbyhole. They've really made the most of the space."

Bradbury's, named for the couple's friends in England -- apparently "Makoutz's" didn't have the right ring -- offers a very simple menu: crepes, beverages and a couple of bakery items. The cafe has usually four or five different crepes on the menu, plus one or two additional crepes now while the farmers' market is at its peak. All of the ingredients are seasonal, and locally produced whenever available.

On a recent visit, I had a satisfying ham, egg and Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese crepe ($6) made with ham from Fountain Prairie Farms in Fall River, eggs from Pecatonica Valley Farm in Hollandale, and Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese, an aged artisanal Gruyere from Uplands Cheese Company in Dodgeville.

The peppery crepe was folded around cubes of ham, which were drizzled with maple syrup. The crepe was tasty, but it was rather light on the egg and cheese.

Earlier this summer, on a crowded Saturday, there were only three choices of crepes. I went with two friends after the farmers' market and we tried all three. One opted for the smoked trout, arugula and brebis (an artisan sheep's milk cheese, similar to chevre) crepe for $6, but was disappointed.

He complained that it was lukewarm and said that the arugula overwhelmed the trout flavor.

"They have to add something with it for six dollars. Unless you are on a diet, it is simply not enough food," he said, suggesting that they throw in some apple slices or pieces of cantaloupe. "This is not a meal. It's like a snack."

My other companion had a raspberry and Door County cherry dessert crepe ($4.50). Not a big cherry fan, she nonetheless called the cherries excellent. It also had a raspberry jam inside.

Never one to pass up Nutella, the chocolate hazelnut spread, I had a Nutella and banana crepe ($4.50), which was fine, but could have used more filling.

Bradbury's makes its own scones and galettes, which are French pastries with a crispy crust folded over a filing. Bradbury's barista, Jon Nodler, described it almost like a miniature pie. The bakery items, which are made on site, usually run out early.

The shop uses Kickapoo brand coffee out of Viroqua and sells it in bulk. You can get French press coffee, tea, chai, hot chocolate and a number of espresso drinks. The coffee is exceptional.

On my last visit, the barista, who was working solo, was listening to the music of Seattle singer-songwriter Rocky Votolato, which gave the place some life on a dreary Monday afternoon.

Another charming aspect of Bradbury's is its unique logo, painted on the window, with a large red flower growing out of the "u" in its name.

Madison has seen its share of creperies come and go. For crepe lovers, it's great to see Bradbury's take root.

Bradbury's

Address: 127 N. Hamilton

Phone: 204-0474

Web site: www.bradburyscoffee.com

Hours: Monday through Friday 6:30 a.m.-7 p.m.; Saturday 7 a.m.-2 p.m.

Notes: Street parking can be hard to find, parking ramp across the street; wheelchair accessible; credit cards, personal checks accepted; no smoking.

Samara Kalk Derby  —  9/17/2008 11:58 am