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Delectable Fresco provides a perfect evening

Samara Kalk Derby  —  5/15/2008 10:08 am

We arrived at Fresco at 7:45 p.m. on a Thursday. It was moderately crowded, but a little later a number of parties began showing up. It was late for dinner in Madison and we wondered if they were coming for a meal, drinks, a snack or dessert. Our waitress said it was a bit of each.

It was only after we left -- buzzing from a wonderful meal -- that I remembered the "Fresco fives" that the restaurant advertises on a signboard outside on State Street. During the last hour of service (weekdays between 8 and 9 p.m. and weekends between 9 and 10 p.m.), Fresco offers an amazing deal: all martinis, wines by the glass, small plates and desserts are just $5, and all entrees are $5 off.

If we had just waited 15 minutes!

The $9.50 California zinfandel (Joel Gott, 2006) I ordered would have been more reasonable at $5. My companion chose the cheapest wine on the list at $6, the French white Domaine de Pouy (Vin de Pays Cotes de Gascogne, 2006). The menu offered a nice description of each wine -- the zin had notes of raspberry, cola, tobacco and maple, while the French white noted hints of apple, pear and lime.

Fresco opened on the top floor of the Madison Museum of Contemporary Art, or MMoCA, in May 2006.

Even without the "Fresco fives" deal, I can guarantee that you will not regret a night at the restaurant. The food is exceptional, the service is first-rate and the setting is among the nicest in town. Floor-to-ceiling windows give diners fantastic views of the city below, plus the adjoining outdoor sculpture garden on the museum roof. The decor is red and black, with a contemporary, clean look.

"It's spectacular, really gorgeous up here," said my dining companion, who was visiting from out of town.

We started with the shrimp diablo ($10), three perfect prawns prepared with garlic, chili and lime. It was accompanied by a jicama-orange salad with red pepper, red onion and lots of cilantro.

Next, we split the superb roasted vegetable salad ($7), which our waitress had the kitchen divide equally onto two plates. The mixed greens were well-dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette and held a spear of zucchini, green beans, carrot and chunks of goat cheese.

On two previous visits to Fresco, I ordered the lone vegetarian entree -- a decadently rich gnocchi. I was glad to see a version of it still on the menu and it took a lot of discipline to pass it up. The latest incarnation sounded especially enticing, with sheep's milk ricotta, seasonal vegetables and brown herb butter cream ($17).

But the stuffed pork tenderloin ($21) made me forget all about the gnocchi. It was crispy at the edges, stuffed with golden raisins and other dried fruit in a bacon-sherry vinaigrette and served with thyme-roasted new potatoes.

Just as welcome was the Kodiak Island halibut ($25), a thick, moist piece of fish in a light, lemon beurre blanc. It was served atop heavenly goat cheese mashed potatoes and perfectly sauteed asparagus.

There are six dessert choices, and we went with the dark chocolate cake ($7). How could we not after seeing it delivered in all its splendor to a nearby table? A dark chocolate ganache, it was made with orange-scented Bavarian cream and served with a lemony cookie stuck at the top. Truth be told, I enjoyed the cookie more than the cake.

FRESCO

Address: 227 State St.

Phone: 663-7374

Hours: Sunday 4 to 8 p.m.; Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 p.m.

Web site: www.frescomadison.com.

Notes: Parking ramps nearby; wheelchair accessible; no smoking, even on the patio; credit cards, personal checks accepted.

Samara Kalk Derby  —  5/15/2008 10:08 am