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SAT., OCT 4, 2008 - 6:00 PM
Cooks' Exchange: 'Chili Al' kept East Siders well-fed
CATHERINE MURRAY
Mention the name Felly and one envisions flowers and plants, which the family has sold for 58 years at five Madison locations. The family name, however, has been associated with more than fresh flowers, including popular eating establishments such as Felly's on Atwood Avenue, where Bunky's is located today.

During the past six months, I've sharpened memories of my old stomping grounds by researching East Side recipes and some Atwood Avenue restaurants for the recently published book, "An East Side Album." Sold to raise money for the Goodman Community Center, the book debuted during the Sept. 27 grand opening in the beautifully renovated old Kupfer Foundry building at 149 Waubesa St. Researched and written by East Side History Club leaders Sarah White, Ann Waidelich and Pat Martin, "An East Side Album" will be treasured by all who thirst for local history.

Research about Felly's restaurant led me to Al Felly, son of "Chili Al" Felly. Decades ago, Chili Al opened a nine-stool restaurant in a Trachte metal "shack" on a State Street corner. His specialty was chili made from a "secret Aztec recipe" brought back from the King Ranch in Texas where he had worked as a young man.

One day, John Whitfield and his girlfriend stopped for lunch. Though Chili Al recognized him as one of the country's most wanted criminals, Whitfield's order was taken before Chili Al returned to the kitchen. He slipped out the back door to call the police, then sauntered back inside to serve the couple. Anxious minutes ticked by before Chili Al snuck back out to call again. When the police finally arrived, the couple had disappeared. Thinking they were heading to a Lake Waubesa cottage, police surrounded the cottage but the only shot taken killed a cow. Although Whitfield escaped, he was eventually captured in Cleveland. Chili Al attended the trial in Ohio, where he received $600 of the $10,000 reward.

The reward money allowed Chili Al to close shop on State Street and head east to a place on Atwood Avenue with second floor living quarters. Everyone told him he was crazy, but he proved them wrong. Special items such as Southern fried chicken drew crowds, as did fried chicken stuffed in a loaf of day old bread from Sainer's Bakery a block away. The loaf was rolled in newspaper, tied with a string and served as a basket that would remain warm for an hour. Every noon hour, Chili Al served a blue plate special, mostly to employees of the Four Lakes Ordinance (today's Madison Kipp) across the street. Lunch with pie cost only 35 cents, a nickel more for pie a la mode.

In 1937, when Al Felly Jr. was 12, his father, Chili Al, died. His wife, Lydia, a great cook with only a third-grade education, kept the restaurant going until 1943. She then sold the business to Carlo Caputo, who established Rosemary's Spaghetti House, named for his wife, who did all the cooking. The next owner was Bob Leske, remembered for his popular Steak House. Other owners followed.

Memories linger on as Al Felly recently shared a menu for the East Side history book. Inside are reminders of Porterhouse Steak dinners for 75 cents and a boiled ham sandwich costing one thin dime. The back of the menu boasts of one of the Felly's restaurants operating from 1909 to 1943, Chili Al introducing chili to Madison and stories about Chili Al and the capture of John Whitfield appearing in national crime magazines.

Chili Al's Chili

1 medium onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, chopped

2 pounds ground beef

cup flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

2 teaspoons chicken bouillon

teaspoon black pepper

teaspoon white pepper (optional)

1 teaspoon paprika

3 teaspoons chili powder or to taste

1/8 teaspoon red pepper

1/8 teaspoon cumin (optional)

46-ounce can of chicken broth

15-ounce can of tomato sauce

2 cans of kidney beans, drained

Saut onion and garlic and brown ground beef. Add all dry ingredients and continue to brown well. Add liquids and simmer for 2 hours. Add drained beans and bring up to serving temperature. Serves "2 chili lovers, or 8 normal people."

Al Felly Jr. also shared this recipe his mother used to prepare for his father to serve at the restaurant.

Grandma Felly's Homemade French Dressing

1 can Campbell's tomato soup

1 1/3 cups salad oil

1 tablespoon celery seed

1 medium grated onion

cup white vinegar

cup sugar

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon salt

1 minced garlic clove

Place all ingredients in blender and blend until smooth. Place in a quart jar and refrigerate.

Ellen Johnston remembers the rum balls "to die for" sold at Ella's Deli on State Street back in the 1960s and 1970s. Barbara Lowe, whose husband's uncle, the late Gordy Natvig, owned Gordy's Bake Shop, also remembers them baked in all of their delicious glory at his bake shop on Monroe Street.

Rum Balls

For the rum balls:

cup butter, softened

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 egg yolk

1 tablespoon dark rum

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup all-purpose flour

cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1 cup finely chopped walnuts or pecans

For the cinnamon-sugar-walnut topping (see note):

2 sticks unsalted butter, melted

1 cups walnuts, finely ground

1 cups granulated sugar

1 tablespoons cinnamon

To prepare the rum balls, beat butter, sugar and egg yolk in large bowl until light and fluffy. Blend in rum and vanilla. Stir in flour, cocoa and nuts; mix well. Cover and refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease cookie sheets or line with parchment paper. Shape dough into 1-inch balls; place 2 inches apart on prepared cookie sheets. Bake 15-20 minutes or until firm. Remove to wire racks to cool.

For the topping, combine ingredients. Roll balls in topping then store in airtight container up to 5 days or in refrigerator. Makes about 3 dozen cookies.Note: Gordy's niece likes these best rolled in chocolate jimmies.

Months ago, after the Old Dutch Caramel Puffcorn recipe appeared here, Laurel Sazama of Chippewa Falls shared a recipe that her husband's secretary brought to the office. Though fun to make and eat any time of the year, it's perfect for fall football games on television.

Crispix Mix

2 sticks butter

cup brown sugar

cup light Karo syrup

1 large box Crispix cereal

9- or 10-ounce can mixed nuts or peanuts

Bring butter, sugar and syrup to a boil on medium heat. Place cereal and nuts in very large bowl, pour butter mixture over and mix well. Bake on large baking sheet with sides at 200 degrees for 1 hour, stirring every 15 minutes. Cool on waxed paper or foil. Store in tins or plastic bowls or bags.

Note:

Mary Bergin and Barry Levenson, two of Wisconsin's best-known foodies, will talk about and let you sample some of the state's most unusual and tastiest foods from 5 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. Oct. 15 during the Wisconsin Book Festival at A Room of One's Own, 307 W. Johnson St. Bergin's book, "Hungry for Wisconsin: A Tasty Guide for Travelers," will become a Wisconsin road trip necessity, and "Mustard on a Pickle" by Mount Horeb Mustard Museum founder Levenson is a novel way to introduce children to new foods.

Contact the Cooks' Exchange in care of the Wisconsin State Journal, P.O. Box 8058, Madison, WI 53708, or by e-mail to greenbush4@aol.com. When requesting a recipe from an out-of-town restaurant, please include the restaurant address and phone number. Because of the volume of mail, not all requests can be answered.


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