SPRING GREEN — Working briefly in the cafeteria at Capital Newspapers may not have been the highlight of chef James Jens' career, but on behalf of the ink-stained wretches who were once the beneficiaries of his creativity and talent: Thanks for the memories. Others may have tasted Jens' cooking at the Opera House, The American Club in Kohler, the Capitol Chophouse or several other classy establishments.

While it's no longer possible for us to pick up Jens' fennel and leek bisque for a couple of bucks in our cafeteria, a drive to Spring Green will bring you to his current culinary outpost.

The food at The Bank Restaurant and Wine Bar is just part of the attraction. The restaurant is in an exquisitely renovated 1915 Neoclassical Revival bank that still has its marble-faced teller cages, vault (now a private dining room), mosaic floor and restored facade. While there's outdoor seating, it's hard to imagine not wanting to take advantage of the lovely setting. Previously, the bank was the studio and residence of artist Peg Miller, and you can dine at a table in the vault that once served as Miller's closet.

The menu changes weekly depending on what is locally available, but always includes tenderloin, wild game, poultry, seafood, pasta and something vegetarian. A mid-April menu included a warm terrine appetizer that combined lamb shoulder confit and goat cheese in olive oil, served with fennel-onion crackers, thin slices of red apple and Dijon mustard. Its richness makes it well-suited for the wine bar side of the business: Have a glass of one of The Bank's 200 wines and this appetizer, and call it dinner.

The yam and asparagus salad, in contrast, was as light as spring, the unexpectedly successful pairing getting ballast and texture from red onion, roasted roma tomatoes and honey-roasted almonds and a stunning blast of flavor from a pepppercorn-bacon Parmesan dressing.

The kitchen's ability to move easily from heavy and filling dishes to the ethereal was also evident in the entrees. This week's heavyweight contender was a 16-ounce Angus New York strip steak, evenly charred outside and moist and rare inside, with a potent chimichurri demi glaze and served with a three bean and bacon casserole with bleu cheese and honey poached carrots. By itself, the steak was extraordinary and the unerring accompaniment made it something that will be remembered for years.

The salmon trio, while not exactly spa food, at least has the appearance of being much lighter and had plenty of visual drama. The salmon-caper was topped with a refreshing lemon-lime creme fraiche, a translucent orb of salmon ravioli was filled with spinach and ricotta and served with a tomato-ginger relish, and crostini was topped with brie gratinee and fennel jam, served with organic house-made yellow potato chips and drizzled with a pepper-tomato coulis.

Five desserts on this week's list were similarly elaborate. The basil almond cake, another edible work of art, displayed in a red-pepper tuile (a thin cookie that's shaped into a bowl when it's hot, and then hardens) and topped with pineapple coconut-jalapeno relish, white chocolate lemon cream, crumbled spiced nuts, blueberry gelee and basil honey. After a dinner that had already set off alarms in every part of a palate, it might have been better to have something like a tiny scoop of vanilla ice cream. But aside from that, this dessert featured another ingredient combination that succeeds as much more than a novelty item.

While the service is excellent, the pace is slow, which is something to be considered if dinner at The Bank is a prelude to a show at American Players Theater. Special events, such as a Japanese Sake Dinner, are also held.

Name: The Bank Restaurant and Wine Bar
Location: 134 W. Jefferson St., Spring Green Specialties: Seasonal menus change weekly. Contemporary international cuisine
Phone: 588-7600
Hours: Lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; dinner 4 to 10 p.m.; tapas/dessert 11 a.m. to midnight; Saturday and Sunday 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Closed Mondays
Price range: Appetizers, soups and salads $5 to $12; a la carte entrees $18 to $38; desserts $7 to $12; cheese platters $5 to $8
Smoking: Not permitted
Credit cards: Accepted
Accessibility: Yes
Reservations: Accepted
Bottom line: Creative fine dining, plus a lounge, in a beautifully restored historic bank with most of its original features. Dine in a vault, a dining room or on the patio. 200 wines. Not recommended for children, but vegetarians are considered on the menus.