At the risk of inciting an angry mob, I'd say it might be time to question the widespread assumption that the best burger in Madison, or the United States, or even the world, is at Dotty Dumpling's Dowry. Yes, Dotty's has been winning best-burger-in-Madison polls for a couple of decades and made it into the top 100 in the book "Hamburger America,'' and was named Best in the Big 10 by USA today.

But the competition is growing. There are perfectly seared Black Angus patties and artisanal bakery buns out there now. And there are many more cooks who, like those at Dotty's, are willing to move far beyond catsup and mustard and tomato slices when they offer variations. The Old Fashioned on the Square, and the Blue Moon on old University Avenue come quickly to mind.

Dotty's, though, does turn out a fine, juicy burger made of hand-pattied ground chuck that arrives fresh daily from local producers, and is never frozen. The sesame seed bun, though, adds almost nothing in the way of taste and long before the burger is consumed it is so disintegrated and soggy that your choices are: 1) eat the patty with your hands like a savage; or 2) pick up a knife and fork. While the California Burger was good, the guacamole, jalapeno bacon, Provolone and sprouts made it especially messy. How about a crusty ciabatta roll or something along those lines as an option?

More out of curiosity than passionate desire, we tried some of the more exotic burgers on the menu. As an employee of a company that weighs and measures its staff every October, it seemed prudent to try the Ostrich Burger, which has 95 percent less fat than beef patties. It tasted remarkably similar to the beef burger, with its pleasantly smoky flavor, though the texture was finer, and was well suited to the English garlic mayonnaise served on the side. The Lamb and Bison Burgers, likewise, could also pass for beef to the unsuspecting. The lamb is given a Mediterranean twist with spices, a thick sprinkling of feta cheese and a refreshing dill cucumber sauce. And back to my earlier griping about the soft bun — it would have been much more enjoyable on something like fresh pita bread. The bison comes from Cherokee Bison Farms in Marathon, has a distinctive texture and a taste reminiscent of wild game. The Cajun Spiced Chicken has a nice peppery kick, and the meat was impressively tender. All the burgers are six ounces, with a choice of 13 free condiments and another 22 that are 75 cents each.

A side of jambalaya is a good bet, with its peppery base, lots of tomato, celery, green pepper and chicken. Salads are enormous and fresh, especially the Spinach Salad with plenty of crumbled Maytag bleu cheese, walnuts and dried cranberries and a pleasantly tangy vinaigrette.

If your company doesn't weigh you in October — or even if it does, but you don't care — by all means try the spectacular Fudge Bottom Pie, one of the other homemade pies or the malts and shakes.

Since reservations aren't accepted, service at peak times might mean long waits and spotty service. But the warm, if testosterone-heavy atmosphere (lots of wood, a motorcycle sculpture, a stuffed badger and mounted animal heads, a Hindenburg and airplane replicas) and the classic rock background music makes the wait a relatively fun one.

DINER'S SCORECARD

Restaurant: Dotty Dumpling's Dowry
Location: 317 N. Frances Street
Phone: 259-0000
Specialties: Burgers, 25 beers on tap, pies
Hours: Monday through Wednesday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Sunday noon to 10 p.m.
Prices: Burgers and sandwiches $5 to $8; salads $6 to $7; soup, chili and sides $2 to $9
Smoking: No
Credit cards: Accepted
Accessibility: Yes
Reservations: Not accepted
Bottom line:Reliably good food in a lively environment that's often noisy