You can tackle most with simple hand tools, either items you own or those you can buy for $10 or less. The only power tool here is a variable speed drill.

We'll start at the front door.

1. Replace door lock

Especially if you buy an existing house, with lots of old keys floating around, you might want to replace the exterior locks. On the inside of the door, remove the two long bolts holding the front and back of the lock together; remove the front and back of the lock. On edge of door, remove screws holding latch in place, and pull latch out.

To replace, just add new hardware in reverse order.

Door hardware needs tightening and lubricating over the years, so understanding how it works will pay off in more than extra security.

Tips: Before buying new hardware, check the "backset," or the distance from the edge of door to center of the hole for the deadbolt or doorknob. Replacement hardware will need to match.

2. Change filters

When changing furnace and air conditioning filters, be sure you know where all of the filters are — on air returns or at the air handler.

Tips: Make a note of filter sizes and keep the information handy. Also, learn how to clear the pipe that carries condensation from the air handler during the cooling season. The pipe can get clogged with mold and algae — and the water can back up. If your air handler is in the attic or a utility room, it should have two drains: one from the unit, and the other from the safety pan under the unit.

3. Find the water cutoff

It's probably in a utility room or closet, but could be at a water tank or near the meter.

Tips: Familiarize yourself with other cutoffs, too: Don't forget the dishwasher and icemaker, for instance. And learn how to turn off the gas in an emergency: Gas valves, indoors or at the meter, are open when parallel to the line and closed when perpendicular.

4. Find a stud in a wall

You'll want to find studs any time you're hanging a heavy object, or installing molding or cabinets. Most homeowners know the tap-tap-tap routine; you'll get a hollow sound between studs, a solid thunk on the stud. (Most of the time.) The centers of the studs are 16 inches apart — so if you find one you can usually locate the others pretty easily.

Tips: Look for the heads of finishing nails near the top edge of the baseboard. Those nails will be in studs. Or, hold a flashlight against the wall, shining the light parallel to the wall. Turn the flashlight slowly to sweep the wall with light. You'll be able to spot the patches over drywall nail heads or screw heads that aren't visible otherwise.

5. Use hollow wall anchors

For spaces between studs, use hollow-wall anchors to mount towel bars, drapery rods and the like on walls. The most important rule is to match the anchor to the weight of the item you're mounting. From weakest to strongest, anchors include: plastic expansion anchors, threaded drywall anchors (Zip-It), winged plastic anchors, molly bolts or sleeve-type anchors, and toggle bolts.

When installing anchors, you can make small holes in drywall with an awl or sharp nail, but use a drill for larger holes.

Tips: Make small starter holes even for those anchors that screw in. And, if you're not going to mount something in the same spot, it's easier to patch over anchors than it is to remove them. Here's how: Remove the bolt or screw; tap the anchor lightly with a hammer until it's below the face of the drywall; cover with spackling; sand.

6. Hang a ceiling fan

This involves skills that you'll use to replace light fixtures and receptacles.

The first step, any time you're dealing with electricity: TURN OFF THE POWER AT THE BREAKER BOX.

You must make sure a ceiling fan is anchored properly. If you can move the electrical box with one finger, it won't support a fan. It's best to anchor the fan directly to the ceiling joist.

First, assemble the fan, minus blades. Then attach the fan's ceiling bracket. Hang fan in the bracket. Connect wires — black to black and white to white — according to the directions. Attach blades. Fans work best if blades are at least 10 inches from the ceiling, and fans should be no lower than 7 feet from floor.

Tips: Your first electrical project is a good time to make sure the breakers are labeled clearly and correctly. When installing fans — or light fixtures or dimmer switches — make sure wires are securely fastened and avoid jamming wires into crowded boxes.

7. Drive drywall screws

To drive drywall screws, use a variable speed drill. You'll repair drywall nail pops that way, of course. Pull the nail, drive a screw into the stud or joist a few inches away from the nail hole. The screw head should "dimple" the surface, with the screw head just below the face of the drywall. Cover the screw head and nail hole with spackling, let dry and sand.

With screws and drywall clips, you can make larger wall repairs. U.S. Gypsum, the maker of Sheetrock brand drywall, offers a handy explainer online: Go to www.usg.com, search for repair clips, click on "Install Guide."

You use the same screw-driving skills to repair loose boards on your deck. Pull any loose nails and replace with decking screws. Be sure you use coated or galvanized screws in treated lumber.

Tips: Driving screws isn't easy. Practice on a scrap of 2-by-4. Also, buy extra No. 2 Phillips screw bits. You always want a spare.

8. Master a caulking gun

Some say squeeze tubes are easier for do-it-yourselfers to master. We think they're wrong. A gun's trigger gives you more control.

Cut the tip of the tube at an angle, but with a smaller hole than you think you might need; you can always trim the tip again if the hole needs to be larger. Break the inner seal.

Quit squeezing before you get to the end of the area you're caulking. The caulk will continue to come out. When you reach the end, lift the gun from the surface and IMMEDIATELY remove the tension on the push rod.

Tips: Use mildew-resistant bath and kitchen caulk for tub or shower; use paintable acrylic latex for that gap between wall and baseboard. Also, when smoothing caulk with your finger, resist the temptation to overwork it. Smooth it with two passes.

9. Clean up wall messes

You can't paint over crayon, ball-point pen, grease or water stains. You must seal stains first.

Use a pigmented shellac for primer. A familiar brand is B-I-N from Zinsser, and the company's Web site is a good place to learn about specialty primers. Visit www.zinsser.com.

Tips: Remember that you can tint primers to make them easier to cover with the finish paint.

10. Replace flapper ball in a toilet

Every homeowner deals with a toilet that leaks water from the tank to the bowl. The problem is usually a bad flapper ball, the valve that opens when you press the handle to flush. The cure is easy: Buy a replacement, read the directions on the back of the package, install it.

Tips: Be sure to pay attention to proper chain length. A chain that's too short or too long can interfere with proper operation. Also, clean the opening at the bottom of the tank thoroughly before installing the new flapper ball.